girolle

— The dominance of the squeaky-clean white button has given way to a far wider range: brown chestnuts and flat-capped portobellos, and pearly-white oysters, which really do look a bit like the oyster shells they’re named after, carotene-orange girolles, flavour-bomb dried shiitake and porcini, or delicate enoki, with their long, skinny legs and tiny caps, which are often sold in packages with buna and shiro shimejis and labelled “exotic”.