chefwear

— When I dropped by to see him recently, passing first through his stylishly sparse sixty-five-seat dining room, past his four sommeliers – count them, four – through a kitchen staffed by serious- looking young Americans in buttoned-up Bragard jackets with the Veritas logo stitched on their breasts and chefwear MC Hammer pants, down a flight of stairs, I found him wrapping a howitzer-sized log of foie gras in cheesecloth.